Ride Naudés Neck Pass

Island in the clouds

After Sani, Naudé’s Nek is the highest mountain pass in South Africa. It might only be 30 km long, but tackling it requires some planning. You can’t just hop on your bike and mosey over on a sunny Sunday afternoon.

If it’s dry and clear, you can ride the full 80 km from Rhodes to Maclear in less than two hours. But if it has snowed or rained heavily you’d be smart to reconsider, even if Marc Coma is offering you a lift on his Dakar bike.

The best time to go depends on whether you want adventure or a relaxed, scenic experience. Expect snow and heavy fog in winter. December is the start of the rainy season, which means a landscape of emerald bedecked with wildflowers â€" but it also means mud and slippery corners…

Stop here:

 Sleep in Cecil’s town 
The old anthracite heater burns while Dave Walker, owner of Walkerbouts Inn, pours another sherry and tells stories about life in the Eastern Cape highlands.

The Bushmen, he says, would leave the valley at the start of every winter and return in summer. When European settlers arrived, they opted to overwinter in nearby caves. Many died from exposure.

The village of Rhodes started to expand after proper houses with hearths could be built. Dave proudly mentions that his inn is built on the same spot where the original homestead of the farm Tintern stood.

Rate: R575 per person (dinner and breakfast included).
GPS: S30.79837 E27.96162 (Walkerbouts Inn)
Contact: 045 9749 290; walkerbouts.co.za

 In memoriam 
The first landmark is a commemorative plaque dedicated to the trailblazing brothers Gabriel and Stefanus Naudé who started building the pass in 1896. They were searching for a shorter route to the livestock markets on the other side of the mountains.

After allowing their horses free rein, they found an acceptable route. They returned with picks, shovels and a scotch cart and began building a trail wide enough for their ox wagon to negotiate.

The pass, much as it remains today, was completed in 1910 by road engineer George Mandy, with the help of the industrious Naudé brothers, of course.

GPS: S30.76350 E28.05668

 Stay frosty! 
Be alert as you drive up the pass: The bends are deceptively sharp. To this day, the height of the pass is contentious. Some say it’s 2 492 m above sea level, making it slightly lower than Witsieshoek Pass; others swear it peaks at 2 920 m, making it 46 m higher than Sani!

My GPS showed the apex at 2 575 m, so I’ll stick to that. The crest isn’t signposted nor is there a dramatic view. There’s just a sheep kraal and patches of soft yellow moraea flowers.

GPS: S30.76569 E28.10485

 Spoil yourself 
About 8 km beyond the highest point, you’ll see the turnoff to Tenahead Mountain Lodge and Spa. There’s a road sign nearby announcing an altitude of 2 500 m above sea level. This causes some confusion as some assume it to be the summit of the pass.

The eco-frien dly luxury lodge was constructed from locally quarried stone and offers a welcome break from the bumpy gravel road.

If you decide to stay the night, you can use the lodge’s facilities and go fly-fishing, pony riding or drive the 27 km 4x4 trail to Tiffindell ski resort.

Rate: From R1 450 per person (breakfast included).
GPS: S30.70949 E28.13678
Contact: 045 971 8901; riverhotels.co.za/tenahead

 Twist and shake 
The pass has a number of hairpin bends, but Mooidraai is particularly tight. Take extra care if you’re towing an off-road trailer or caravan â€" if Fate decides that you’ll jack-knife your rig, this is where it will happen. The view is astonishing. Far below, the hills roll off into the distance, gradually shifting to blue as they approach the horizon.

GPS: S30.73251 E28.14272

 Take the high road… 
When you reach Elands Heights at the bottom of the pass, you can either drive back to Rhodes, continue east to Mount Fletcher or head south to Maclear.

The road to Mount Fletcher will take you over Pitseng Pass and the road south over Potrivier Pass. Both are great rides but neither pass is as well engineered as Naudé’s Nek.

Potrivier, in particular, can turn into a giant mud bath after summer rain. If you arrive shortly after the rain â€" but before the grader has fixed the road â€" you’ll be burdening your underpants for sure. Fun!

GPS: S30.75434 E28.30782 (Pitseng Pass); S30.93630 E28.21272 (Potrivier Pass)